Building forms and placing reinforcement (rebar or wire mesh)
Pouring, finishing and curing the concrete
Adding control joints so cracks happen in planned places
Removing forms and backfilling
What should happen, step by step
Use this as a checklist while the job is underway. If a step is skipped, ask why.
Durations are typical planning ranges from Corky's field experience, not guarantees. Weather, inspections, material lead times and surprises behind walls change them.
How long it usually takes
Forming and pouring a patio or walkway is often a few days of work, but concrete keeps gaining strength for weeks. Ask when you can walk on it and when vehicles can drive on it - the answer depends on the mix and weather.
General guidance only. Your contractor's written schedule is what counts.
Inspections to expect
Footing / foundation inspection before the pour (almost always for structural concrete)
Driveway approach inspection by the city or county where it meets the street
Slab or under-slab plumbing inspection before a pour over pipes
Which inspections apply depends on your city or county. Ask your contractor to share each passed inspection result. Understanding permits & inspections
What drives the cost
Thickness, size and how much reinforcement is needed
Access for the concrete truck or need for a pump
Removal of old concrete
Finish type (broom, stamped, colored, exposed aggregate)
Common pattern: small deposit, a payment after forms/rebar pass inspection, balance after the pour and cleanup.
Pay a modest deposit, then progress payments tied to finished, visible milestones (e.g., 'rough-in passed inspection'), never to dates alone.
Keep payments at or behind the work completed - you should never have paid for much more than has been done and delivered.
Hold the final payment until the final inspection is passed, the punch list is finished and you have lien waivers.
Avoid cash. Pay by check or card so there is a record, and get a receipt for every payment.
Deposit limits vary by state: California, for example, caps a home improvement down payment at 10% of the price or $1,000, whichever is less. Arizona has no single statewide percentage cap that we are aware of, so negotiate it and put it in the contract. Check your state's rules.
No reinforcement or control joints on a slab or driveway
Adding lots of water to the mix on site to make it easier to spread
'Leftover concrete from another job' door-to-door offers
Thin pours sold as full thickness - ask how thickness is measured
Pouring before a required inspection
No curing plan in hot or windy weather
Also watch for the general warning signs: large upfront payments, cash-only, no written estimate, pressure to sign today and no proof of license or insurance.
Questions to ask before you sign
What thickness, reinforcement and base will you use?
Where will control joints go?
Is removal of the old concrete and hauling included?
How long before I can walk and drive on it?
What do you do about cracks, and what does your warranty cover?
How will you protect the pour in hot weather (early start, shade, curing compound)?
Is the concrete mix strength written in the contract?
Get the answers in writing, in the contract. Always ask for the contractor's license number and proof of insurance, and check the license with your state or local licensing agency. How to hire a contractor · Quick question? Contractor's Desk ($5)
Warranty
Concrete cracks; control joints decide where. Ask what cracks the contractor will fix (width, heaving, settling) and for how long - in writing.
Expect two kinds of warranty: the manufacturer's product warranty (shingles, windows, fixtures, equipment) and the contractor's workmanship warranty on the installation. Get both in writing with the length, what is covered and how to make a claim. Many product warranties require registration or installation per the manufacturer's instructions. In Arizona, a homeowner can file a workmanship complaint against a licensed contractor with the Registrar of Contractors within two years of the last work performed on a remodel or repair.
DIY vs. hire out
Usually OK to DIY
Small pads, stepping stones or setting a post in bagged concrete
Sealing an existing slab
Hire a licensed pro
Driveways, footings, foundations and anything over a truckload
Stamped or colored finishes
Work tied to a permit
Some work legally requires a licensed contractor and a permit even on your own home. Check your state and city rules.
Permits to expect
Foundations and footings almost always need a permit and inspection. Driveways, especially the part that meets the street, often need approval. Simple patios may not. Permit rules are set by your city, county and state, so they vary a lot. Call or check the website of your local building department before work starts. When a permit is required, the licensed contractor usually pulls it in their own name.
General information, not legal advice. Requirements vary by location.
Check a contractor license: search your state's contractor licensing board, or find your state consumer protection office. External sites open in a new tab; Corky's MHS™ is not affiliated with them.
Please note
Educational information only - not legal, engineering or code advice. Rules vary by state, county and city, and change over time. Check with your local building department and licensing board, and read your own contract.
Have an estimate in hand?
A Second Look Review puts an independent set of eyes on the pricing, scope and missing items before you sign. Just have a question? The Contractor's Desk answers it for $5.