The wood or steel skeleton of walls, floors and roofs, plus sheathing, headers and beams. Mistakes here show up later as cracks, sags and doors that stick.
Installing headers over openings and beams where loads are carried
Sheathing walls, floors and roofs
Fastening, bracing and connecting the frame so it resists wind and loads
Correcting or replacing damaged framing
What should happen, step by step
Use this as a checklist while the job is underway. If a step is skipped, ask why.
Durations are typical planning ranges from Corky's field experience, not guarantees. Weather, inspections, material lead times and surprises behind walls change them.
How long it usually takes
Framing a small wall change can take a day or two. An addition's framing can take one to several weeks depending on size, weather and inspections.
General guidance only. Your contractor's written schedule is what counts.
Inspections to expect
Framing inspection (often combined with electrical/plumbing/mechanical rough-in)
Shear wall / nailing inspection where required
Final building inspection
Which inspections apply depends on your city or county. Ask your contractor to share each passed inspection result. Understanding permits & inspections
What drives the cost
Lumber prices and engineered beams (LVL, steel)
Complexity: vaulted ceilings, rooflines, openings
Whether walls are load-bearing
Engineering requirements
Repairs to rot or termite damage found during work
Deposit, payment after framing inspection passes, then balance with the next trade milestones on larger jobs.
Pay a modest deposit, then progress payments tied to finished, visible milestones (e.g., 'rough-in passed inspection'), never to dates alone.
Keep payments at or behind the work completed - you should never have paid for much more than has been done and delivered.
Hold the final payment until the final inspection is passed, the punch list is finished and you have lien waivers.
Avoid cash. Pay by check or card so there is a record, and get a receipt for every payment.
Deposit limits vary by state: California, for example, caps a home improvement down payment at 10% of the price or $1,000, whichever is less. Arizona has no single statewide percentage cap that we are aware of, so negotiate it and put it in the contract. Check your state's rules.
Removing or cutting a wall without checking if it is load-bearing
No plans or engineering for beams and big openings
Skipping required hangers, straps or connectors
Covering framing before inspection
Oversized notches and holes cut through joists and studs
No temporary shoring when opening a bearing wall
Framing 'by eye' with no plans for structural changes
Also watch for the general warning signs: large upfront payments, cash-only, no written estimate, pressure to sign today and no proof of license or insurance.
Questions to ask before you sign
Is this wall load-bearing, and how do you know?
Who sized the beams and headers?
When is the framing inspection scheduled?
How will you handle rot or damage you find?
What lumber grade and fasteners will you use?
Do you have the engineer's letter or stamped plan for this beam?
Will you shore (temporarily support) the ceiling before removing any wall?
Get the answers in writing, in the contract. Always ask for the contractor's license number and proof of insurance, and check the license with your state or local licensing agency. How to hire a contractor · Quick question? Contractor's Desk ($5)
Warranty
Structural defects should be covered by the workmanship warranty; ask how long and what counts (sagging, cracking, doors sticking).
Expect two kinds of warranty: the manufacturer's product warranty (shingles, windows, fixtures, equipment) and the contractor's workmanship warranty on the installation. Get both in writing with the length, what is covered and how to make a claim. Many product warranties require registration or installation per the manufacturer's instructions. In Arizona, a homeowner can file a workmanship complaint against a licensed contractor with the Registrar of Contractors within two years of the last work performed on a remodel or repair.
Removing any wall before it's confirmed non-bearing
Some work legally requires a licensed contractor and a permit even on your own home. Check your state and city rules.
Permits to expect
Structural framing - new walls, additions, beams, removing load-bearing walls - generally requires a permit, often with plans and sometimes an engineer's stamp. Permit rules are set by your city, county and state, so they vary a lot. Call or check the website of your local building department before work starts. When a permit is required, the licensed contractor usually pulls it in their own name.
General information, not legal advice. Requirements vary by location.
Check a contractor license: search your state's contractor licensing board, or find your state consumer protection office. External sites open in a new tab; Corky's MHS™ is not affiliated with them.
Please note
Educational information only - not legal, engineering or code advice. Rules vary by state, county and city, and change over time. Check with your local building department and licensing board, and read your own contract.
Have an estimate in hand?
A Second Look Review puts an independent set of eyes on the pricing, scope and missing items before you sign. Just have a question? The Contractor's Desk answers it for $5.