Moving and shaping soil so a project has a solid, well-drained base: digging, grading, trenching, drainage, gravel pads, retaining walls and paver patios.
Excavating or leveling soil and hauling off extra dirt
Grading so water flows away from the house
Trenching for drains, utility lines or French drains
Placing and compacting gravel base for driveways, pads, patios and walls
What should happen, step by step
Use this as a checklist while the job is underway. If a step is skipped, ask why.
Durations are typical planning ranges from Corky's field experience, not guarantees. Weather, inspections, material lead times and surprises behind walls change them.
How long it usually takes
Small jobs such as a gravel pad or short drain are often done in a day or two. Larger grading, retaining walls or patios can take a week or more. Rain, rock, tree roots and wet soil commonly cause delays.
General guidance only. Your contractor's written schedule is what counts.
Inspections to expect
Grading or drainage permit inspection where required
Retaining wall footing or drainage inspection when walls need a permit
Inspection of trenches for utility lines before backfill (if the trench carries a permitted utility)
Which inspections apply depends on your city or county. Ask your contractor to share each passed inspection result. Understanding permits & inspections
What drives the cost
Access for equipment (tight side yards mean more hand work)
Small grading jobs are often paid in full on completion. Larger jobs: small deposit, then payment after base/compaction and final grade.
Pay a modest deposit, then progress payments tied to finished, visible milestones (e.g., 'rough-in passed inspection'), never to dates alone.
Keep payments at or behind the work completed - you should never have paid for much more than has been done and delivered.
Hold the final payment until the final inspection is passed, the punch list is finished and you have lien waivers.
Avoid cash. Pay by check or card so there is a record, and get a receipt for every payment.
Deposit limits vary by state: California, for example, caps a home improvement down payment at 10% of the price or $1,000, whichever is less. Arizona has no single statewide percentage cap that we are aware of, so negotiate it and put it in the contract. Check your state's rules.
No written slope or depth plan - 'we'll eyeball it'
Skipping compaction or base rock to save time
Retaining walls built without drainage behind them
Big price jump after work starts for 'unexpected rock' with no rock clause in the contract
Digging before utility marks appear
No haul-off or disposal line in the bid
Also watch for the general warning signs: large upfront payments, cash-only, no written estimate, pressure to sign today and no proof of license or insurance.
Questions to ask before you sign
How will you make sure water drains away from my foundation?
How deep will the base be and how will it be compacted?
Where will extra soil go, and is hauling included?
What happens to the price if you hit rock or buried debris?
Does this retaining wall height need an engineer or a permit here?
Will you mark the finished grades so I can see the slope before you leave?
How thick is each compacted layer, and how do you test compaction?
Get the answers in writing, in the contract. Always ask for the contractor's license number and proof of insurance, and check the license with your state or local licensing agency. How to hire a contractor · Quick question? Contractor's Desk ($5)
Warranty
Ask what is covered if settlement or ponding appears after the first rainy season. Workmanship warranties of one year are common, but get it in writing.
Expect two kinds of warranty: the manufacturer's product warranty (shingles, windows, fixtures, equipment) and the contractor's workmanship warranty on the installation. Get both in writing with the length, what is covered and how to make a claim. Many product warranties require registration or installation per the manufacturer's instructions. In Arizona, a homeowner can file a workmanship complaint against a licensed contractor with the Registrar of Contractors within two years of the last work performed on a remodel or repair.
DIY vs. hire out
Usually OK to DIY
Hand-grading small beds so water flows away from the house
Clearing brush and debris
Calling 811 yourself for small digs
Hire a licensed pro
Anything needing equipment near foundations or utilities
Retaining walls over a couple of feet
Driveway base and large drainage changes
Some work legally requires a licensed contractor and a permit even on your own home. Check your state and city rules.
Permits to expect
Grading, larger retaining walls, driveways that connect to the street and drainage that changes water flow onto neighbors often need a permit or approval. Permit rules are set by your city, county and state, so they vary a lot. Call or check the website of your local building department before work starts. When a permit is required, the licensed contractor usually pulls it in their own name.
General information, not legal advice. Requirements vary by location.
Check a contractor license: search your state's contractor licensing board, or find your state consumer protection office. External sites open in a new tab; Corky's MHS™ is not affiliated with them.
Please note
Educational information only - not legal, engineering or code advice. Rules vary by state, county and city, and change over time. Check with your local building department and licensing board, and read your own contract.
Have an estimate in hand?
A Second Look Review puts an independent set of eyes on the pricing, scope and missing items before you sign. Just have a question? The Contractor's Desk answers it for $5.