Removing old siding and checking sheathing for damage
Installing water-resistive barrier (house wrap) and flashing
Flashing around windows, doors and penetrations
New siding, trim, soffit and fascia
Caulking, painting (if needed) and cleanup
What should happen, step by step
Use this as a checklist while the job is underway. If a step is skipped, ask why.
Durations are typical planning ranges from Corky's field experience, not guarantees. Weather, inspections, material lead times and surprises behind walls change them.
How long it usually takes
A whole-house siding job often takes one to a few weeks depending on size, material and repairs. Trim or soffit repairs may take a day or two.
General guidance only. Your contractor's written schedule is what counts.
Inspections to expect
Permit and inspection where required (varies; common when sheathing or framing is replaced)
HOA or historic-district approval before starting
Which inspections apply depends on your city or county. Ask your contractor to share each passed inspection result. Understanding permits & inspections
What drives the cost
Siding material (vinyl, fiber cement, wood, engineered wood)
Removal and disposal of old siding
Sheathing or framing rot found under the old siding
Deposit, payment at material delivery or halfway, balance after final walk-through.
Pay a modest deposit, then progress payments tied to finished, visible milestones (e.g., 'rough-in passed inspection'), never to dates alone.
Keep payments at or behind the work completed - you should never have paid for much more than has been done and delivered.
Hold the final payment until the final inspection is passed, the punch list is finished and you have lien waivers.
Avoid cash. Pay by check or card so there is a record, and get a receipt for every payment.
Deposit limits vary by state: California, for example, caps a home improvement down payment at 10% of the price or $1,000, whichever is less. Arizona has no single statewide percentage cap that we are aware of, so negotiate it and put it in the contract. Check your state's rules.
Installing new siding over rotten or wet sheathing
No house wrap or window flashing mentioned
No lead-safe practices on a pre-1978 house
Low 'per square' price that excludes trim, corners and flashing
Pressure to sign because of a 'limited time' manufacturer promo
Siding nailed tight (no room for expansion) on vinyl
Skipping flashing at windows and doors
Also watch for the general warning signs: large upfront payments, cash-only, no written estimate, pressure to sign today and no proof of license or insurance.
Questions to ask before you sign
Will you remove the old siding? What if you find rot?
What water barrier and flashing will you use?
Are you EPA Lead-Safe Certified (for pre-1978 homes)?
Are trim, soffit, fascia and corners included?
What warranty covers labor versus material?
What clearance will you leave between siding and the ground or roofline?
Will you follow the siding manufacturer's installation guide so the warranty stays valid?
Get the answers in writing, in the contract. Always ask for the contractor's license number and proof of insurance, and check the license with your state or local licensing agency. How to hire a contractor · Quick question? Contractor's Desk ($5)
Warranty
Product warranties come from the siding maker (read the transferability and labor terms); workmanship warranty from the installer.
Expect two kinds of warranty: the manufacturer's product warranty (shingles, windows, fixtures, equipment) and the contractor's workmanship warranty on the installation. Get both in writing with the length, what is covered and how to make a claim. Many product warranties require registration or installation per the manufacturer's instructions. In Arizona, a homeowner can file a workmanship complaint against a licensed contractor with the Registrar of Contractors within two years of the last work performed on a remodel or repair.
DIY vs. hire out
Usually OK to DIY
Washing siding, small caulk touch-ups
Painting small trim sections (lead-safe practices in older homes)
Hire a licensed pro
Whole-wall re-siding, anything above one story
Work on pre-1978 paint if you are not trained in lead-safe practices
Some work legally requires a licensed contractor and a permit even on your own home. Check your state and city rules.
Permits to expect
Re-siding may or may not need a permit; historic districts and HOAs often have their own rules. Permit rules are set by your city, county and state, so they vary a lot. Call or check the website of your local building department before work starts. When a permit is required, the licensed contractor usually pulls it in their own name.
General information, not legal advice. Requirements vary by location.
Check a contractor license: search your state's contractor licensing board, or find your state consumer protection office. External sites open in a new tab; Corky's MHS™ is not affiliated with them.
Please note
Educational information only - not legal, engineering or code advice. Rules vary by state, county and city, and change over time. Check with your local building department and licensing board, and read your own contract.
Have an estimate in hand?
A Second Look Review puts an independent set of eyes on the pricing, scope and missing items before you sign. Just have a question? The Contractor's Desk answers it for $5.