CMCORKY'S MHS™ Corky's Corner™

Trade guide

Windows & Doors

Replacing or adding windows, exterior and interior doors, garage doors and skylights, including flashing, trim and weatherproofing.

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What the work involves

  • Measuring openings and ordering units
  • Removing old units (lead-safe if pre-1978)
  • Installing, leveling and fastening new units
  • Flashing, insulating and sealing gaps
  • Interior and exterior trim and cleanup

What should happen, step by step

Use this as a checklist while the job is underway. If a step is skipped, ask why.

Durations are typical planning ranges from Corky's field experience, not guarantees. Weather, inspections, material lead times and surprises behind walls change them.

How long it usually takes

Installing replacement windows in a typical house is often a day to a few days of work. The longer wait is usually ordering - lead times vary by manufacturer.

Plan your dates with the Project Timeline Planner

General guidance only. Your contractor's written schedule is what counts.

Inspections to expect

  • Permit and final inspection where required (common when openings change, for egress windows or in energy-code areas)
  • Egress and tempered-glass checks near tubs, stairs and doors

Which inspections apply depends on your city or county. Ask your contractor to share each passed inspection result. Understanding permits & inspections

What drives the cost

  • Unit type and brand, glass options and frame material
  • Insert (pocket) replacement vs. full-frame replacement
  • Size changes that require new framing or headers
  • Trim, siding or stucco repair around openings
  • Egress, tempered glass or other code requirements

See a ballpark range in the free calculator · Look up material prices

What a good bid includes

Check off each item on the bids you receive:

How to read a bid · Have one in hand? Second Look Review (from $25)

Payment schedule

Deposit is often requested to order custom units; keep it modest and in writing. Balance on completion and walk-through.

  • Pay a modest deposit, then progress payments tied to finished, visible milestones (e.g., 'rough-in passed inspection'), never to dates alone.
  • Keep payments at or behind the work completed - you should never have paid for much more than has been done and delivered.
  • Hold the final payment until the final inspection is passed, the punch list is finished and you have lien waivers.
  • Avoid cash. Pay by check or card so there is a record, and get a receipt for every payment.
  • Deposit limits vary by state: California, for example, caps a home improvement down payment at 10% of the price or $1,000, whichever is less. Arizona has no single statewide percentage cap that we are aware of, so negotiate it and put it in the contract. Check your state's rules.

Payment schedules & lien waivers

Red flags & common rip-offs

  • High-pressure in-home sales with a 'today-only' price
  • Energy savings promises with no numbers you can check
  • No mention of flashing on a full-frame install
  • Price that excludes trim, disposal or repairs
  • Pre-1978 home with no lead-safe work plan
  • Expanding foam that bows frames
  • Price quoted only per window with no trim, disposal or repair

Also watch for the general warning signs: large upfront payments, cash-only, no written estimate, pressure to sign today and no proof of license or insurance.

Questions to ask before you sign

  1. Insert or full-frame replacement - and why?
  2. What are the NFRC label ratings of the units?
  3. How will you flash and seal each opening?
  4. Who handles warranty claims - you or the manufacturer?
  5. Are interior/exterior trim, disposal and repairs included?
  6. Will you leave the NFRC labels on until I've checked them?
  7. Who handles a warranty claim - you or the manufacturer?

Get the answers in writing, in the contract. Always ask for the contractor's license number and proof of insurance, and check the license with your state or local licensing agency. How to hire a contractor · Quick question? Contractor's Desk ($5)

Warranty

Window makers give product warranties on glass seals, frames and hardware; labor coverage varies. Get the installer's workmanship warranty separately.

Expect two kinds of warranty: the manufacturer's product warranty (shingles, windows, fixtures, equipment) and the contractor's workmanship warranty on the installation. Get both in writing with the length, what is covered and how to make a claim. Many product warranties require registration or installation per the manufacturer's instructions. In Arizona, a homeowner can file a workmanship complaint against a licensed contractor with the Registrar of Contractors within two years of the last work performed on a remodel or repair.

DIY vs. hire out

Usually OK to DIY

  • Weatherstripping and caulking
  • Replacing an interior slab door in an existing frame

Hire a licensed pro

  • Exterior doors and windows where flashing matters
  • Egress windows and any opening size change

Some work legally requires a licensed contractor and a permit even on your own home. Check your state and city rules.

Permits to expect

Window and door replacement may need a permit, especially if openings change size, for egress windows, or in some energy-code jurisdictions. Permit rules are set by your city, county and state, so they vary a lot. Call or check the website of your local building department before work starts. When a permit is required, the licensed contractor usually pulls it in their own name.

General information, not legal advice. Requirements vary by location.

Sources

Check a contractor license: search your state's contractor licensing board, or find your state consumer protection office. External sites open in a new tab; Corky's MHS™ is not affiliated with them.

Please note

Educational information only - not legal, engineering or code advice. Rules vary by state, county and city, and change over time. Check with your local building department and licensing board, and read your own contract.